In response to Eli... on trends.

Eli, over at Thrift Eye recently commented on the "Florals for Spring" post, and my response to her seemed to inject itself with steroids, grow extra limbs and just generally Jabba the Hut all over the place, so... naturally, I thought it best to share it here.

Eli's perfectly normal, unassuming comment:

"But you used to be or still are a buyer for a store right? That brings upon the duality of trend forecasting much like magazines do I would imagine. Magazines criticize the same hypocrisy they represent. If it's not flowers for spring it's stripes, or dots, or whatever then floral all over again! This is why I'm much more apt to wear what I like and looks good on me and not follow trends. In fact, I think the trend right now and maybe for the 2010's is to not follow a trend?

I personally love flowers...and generally think millions or billions of others do too. Why else would Liberty of London still exist?!"

My unbelievably long, ranting, tangent of a response (sorry):

I totally agree with you, Eli. I buy for stores in California, Hawaii, and Arizona- and yes, as such I am slave to the trend forecasting Gods. We're often buying more than a year out. But you know what? It's all just soooo cyclical and after a while... predictable. This gives many buyers an attitude of: "We make the trends... WE determine what will be available to the public next season/next year..." And to an extent, they're right, because often a particular style won't even go into production if the presale figures are weak. Though it can be very redundant, I have to look at each collection with a fresh and neutral palate because I'm not buying for myself- I'm buying to appeal to women of all ages, shapes, sizes, and lifestyles. I'm paid to predict, but in doing so I have to consider the woman who will ultimately see an item in a shop window and stop in her tracks. Where will she be in 12 months? WHO will she be? What editorial, celebrity, weather, or colors will appeal to her? What music will she listen to? What car will she drive? Who does she go home to at night? How does she earn her money, and (most relevant) how will she choose to spend it?

Personally, I wear whatever the heck I want, whenever I want (often to my own detriment- but happily), and in my everyday life I am absolutely immune to what's hip or trendy at the moment. To be honest, I find that the more loose and unaffected I can keep myself, the better my buying and long term trending radar (and thus next years' sales figures) will be. Also, it might seem obnoxious to say this, but when you're exposed to so many collections so far in advance, what's trending "now" really loses its impact. By the time I finally see the product on a hanger, in the store- it's old news. But it's the way this fashion machine works, and it's really all we've got in terms of steering customers down the path that will lead to the highest revenue. Through trends, the industry shoves its ominous mantra down consumer's throats: "Oooh.... Hurry up and wear your stripes while you can... polka dots are riiiight around the cornerrrr!" Ummm... Are my stripes going to self-destruct next month, or run away from home when the polka dots show up? I can't tell you how much I hate that mentality. I also hate perpetuating the gross consumerism and waste that trends produce in my occupation. It's probably the single most difficult aspect of my job, and will certainly be my downfall- which is why I'm so in love with your approach and the concept you project with your own blog.

I grew up in a really unique situation, with my mother selling vintage couture in one room, and my auntie selling ridiculously high-end contemporary apparel in the next. Under one roof! It definitely molded a unique perspective on the appreciation of quality clothing, upcycling, and care. I learned at a very young age that though trends are fleeting, they always come back. The smartest way to buy is always the very best quality you can afford- whether it's fresh from the manufacturer, or a vintage treasure. And always, ALWAYS hang on to those rare gems that fit you like a glove, flatter you, and make you feel like the prettiest girl in the room.

I'll just slip on my hypocrite hat for a sec here and say, that if I could sit a room full of customers down, I'd ask them to really consider the impact of following trends and to ask themselves before they buy: Is it worthy of the space in your closet? On our planet? Who are you buying it for- the salesgirl who says you look great in it? Your friend who mentioned it? The magazine that said you should? Anna Wintour? Unless the answer is "me", I'd advise them to just say "no". Trends are our obnoxious, money-making, way of controlling you. What's most flattering is an attitude of wearing what you truly love- what truly appeals to you, regardless of outside influence. Confidence, individualism, and knowing yourself and your body is the essence of creating a "signature" look that expresses who you really are. And that, my friend, is the one enduring trend that never goes out of style.

"Florals for Spring... ground breaking"

When Meryl Streep uttered that (now infamous) phrase in The Devil Wears Prada, I snickered at the blunt and blatant accuracy of it. Simple, true... biting! Her character, Miranda Priestly, represented all things correct at fashion's upper echelon, and her remark was the verbal equivalent of a monkey throwing feces at its inferiors.

I'm not going to analyze a movie quote here, I just wanted to point out that I've been thinking a lot lately about trends, seasons, and the general pace of this industry and my place in it. The older I get, the less concerned I am with keeping up and the more interested I am in investment pieces that will float from season to season, and year to year, with ease. Obviously my wants and needs change throughout the year- but at this age I know what I like and what flatters and inspires me, and no amount of runway, marketing, celebrity endorsements, press push, or trending, influences any of it. Free at last!

Although, not the best attitude for a buyer... Eeep!

Today it made me think about that movie quote because- you know what? I love florals for Spring. I love them bold, bright, big, and unapologetic... I love them little, subtle, hinted-at, and light... I want them in my house, my hair, my salads, my window boxes, and yes- sometimes in the fabric swishing around me. I never gave them much thought until I moved to a climate with actual, temperature-changing seasons. In fact, what little thought I did give them was tainted by gaudy images of poly-blend matching sets for tourists. But after enduring months of cold, wet, and grey- florals, sunshine, and cottony, gauzy goodness feel like the reward for making it through another icky Winter. Oooh... I am so feeling these light, breezy pieces for Spring...

I love her dark-palette pattern mixing and the belt that anchors this sweet, movable look with a good dose of solidity.

I've obsessed over this photo since last Spring- but that just proves my theory about age and finding the pieces that you'll want to come back to again and again. Plus, I absolutely adore how adept these Italian girls are at making stacks and tons of jewelry look so effortless and casual.

At first glance you're thinking "What? Too much!"- but I'm telling you, this is the freshest and most fluent way I've seen a maxi dress worn. The color isn't in-your-face and the pattern isn't killing your eyes. She's so unrestricted and fluid, yet the result is regal rather than muʻumuʻu.

This is another one saved from early last year. The epitome of femininity (her dress, her ballerina top-knot, and her pink cheeks) and the contrast of well-worn Converse on a grated metal stoop... I love it so much. I tried a version of this on my Paris trip with a soft, Indian cotton, vintage dress that I picked up for about $12 on the left bank, and my grey Bensimon lace ups. I thought about this photo a lot that day.

This look feels the most ingrained in me. I found a photo of myself from a 5th grade art class recently- wearing something pretty identical, but with a weird, old, felted brown hat thrown in. Hmmm... I went through a very Prairie dress/brown boots phase in 5th grade. I've revisited the look several times since then, and it remains a soft spot. But isn't it just kind of precious? She looks so fragile and sweet, and yet also like she could just kick Miranda Priestly in the teeth for mocking her floral dress.

Photo source: 1-5

Retail buying, for real...

So a friend of mine recently asked about my work, and specifically how she could get into it too. At first I thought, oh yeah... it's nice. As much as I complain- it certainly has its perks; Great clothes, cool people, a little travel... But when I really start thinking about it, it's much more than that. Good and bad, it's much more.

Women love clothes, and young women especially tend to think of the fashion industry as glamourous, and beautiful and I don't know what... so when I tell people I'm a buyer for women's clothing, the immediate response is usually: "Wow!" "Awesome!" "Lucky..." or "Fun". Oftentimes I wonder what they're imagining my work to be... I try to think about it from an outside perspective and wonder, what would I imagine a "buyer" does all day? I can't. I've been up to my eyeballs in this business since I was 14 years old, working as a gopher and retail slave -girl for two years before wriggling my way into "Buyer's Assistant" at 16 (which, cool job title aside, was exactly the same job). It's impossible for me, therefore, to have any remotely unbiased views of this life or to relate at all to the countless girls that seek it out. Am I jaded? Not unless I started out that way. My opinions of, and interest in fashion are so deeply ingrained, they're hard-wired.

My mother sourced and sold vintage couture. I grew up reading "W", "Vogue", and French "Elle" like they were nursery rhymes. I understood the nuances of "cuts" and "lines" while most girls my age were still dressing their Barbies in poly-blend. This may seem smug, but it's really the opposite of that. I didn't know any better. I had no idea that it was any big deal until I was helping squeeze Salma Hayek into a Norma Kamali boneless corset dress at 15 and said: "Well, it's all in the structure- her couture is influenced by architecture and swimwear of the 1940's, so it's really structured, without being restrictive. Flattering without being overt, you know? She sews you in and holds you there with these incredible dual-purpose fabrics, so you don't need the boning!" Salma looked at me like I was possessed, and then she bought the nearly $4,000 gown. My imminent promotion followed soon after. This was my "Oh, I'm not normal"-moment.

The thing is, I knew so much about fashion by the time I went to college, that I couldn't have cared less if I ever went near the industry again. I lusted after the cuts and lines of industrial architectects rather than the cuts and lines of couturiers. Fashion was family, and home, and fall-back, and meh... it wasn't going anywhere. Inevitably I went back to it, simply because it came easily, it was what I knew and I knew it well. I went from gopher, to assistant, to buyer, to store owner and I can tell you- there's not a ton of differences between the four other than money; who's making it, who's spending it, and who's paying it out. Of all those little hats, the one that fit me best was buyer. I make my own hours, I work alone, and the better I buy- the more I earn. The best part is, as I get older, I buy better, I buy smarter and it just gets easier and easier. The worst part is, I'm not challenged, except by my own morals.

You see, there is a new breed of consumer- someone who grew up on Claire's, Forever 21, and polyester prom dresses. They want more and more for less and less, and they don't care where it's made or how- so long as it's cheap and trendy. What's more disheartening is the fact that we (in the industry) are kow-towing to this woman. We're supporting disposable trends, and unethical manufacturing simply to meet the demands of debt-ridden consumers whom either don't know any better, or don't care. But it's cute? That dress you're purchasing at a bargain price was made of cheap, synthetic fabric, dyed with hazardous chemicals and some (illegal in this country) pesticides thrown in for good shipment. But it looks okay to you? It was probably sewn in a filthy sweatshop by a worker paid an unfair wage. There is nothing to be proud of in that prom photo, dear. Your dress is shit and it will fall apart on you. In fact, it's likely something will go wrong with it by the end of the night. Got a deal on your bridesmaid's dresses? Bad manufacturing doesn't bode well for the chicken dance, sister. You're better off having just one bridesmaid and buying her a decent ensemble. Better yet, buy vintage. The fabrics and tailoring are incomparable. Try the touch test. Vintage satin vs. today's cheap but oh-so-shiny and wrinkle-free impostor-satin...

I mention the satin, in particular because I'm fresh off of buying for prom season and to my shock, I found the most incredible silk satin dresses by Joseph Walker. These feel like the vintage couture I know and love. These are the real deal- or as close to the real deal as you're likely to find for the price. Retailing for around $200 they blow the competition out of the water (*ahem* Jessica McClintock *cough,cough*). Even his palette is inspired and tasteful. There is nothing of the garish brights and neo-neons that pop up in nearly every showroom, nearly every Spring. Particularly, his pinks and greens... A subdued, and slightly greyed pink that just looks grown-up and beautiful and an absolutely sumptuous jade green; something universally flattering but oft overlooked. Furthermore, consumers, you're not actually saving on anything- here's a little fashion industry secret... YOU'RE BEING SWINDLED BY BARGAIN PRICED CRAP! Retailers know what prices you're used to, what prices you're immune to, and what you consider a "deal". The less they pay for the goods, the more they make off of you. Think they're passing savings onto you? Absolutely not. The "savings" are built into their profit margins, not passed on to the consumer. In other words, the less they pay, the more they profit. Is there a trendy little shop in your town that seems to ALWAYS have a sale going on? They actually don't... they're simply buying a dress for $10 pricing it at a 5.0 margin (WELL above industry standards). They then mark the dress at 50% off and you're thinking "Wow, I'm getting such a great deal", when in reality, they're profiting off of your trust and making more than they would on a higher priced, quality garment sold at full MSRP (a 2.3 margin). There is no bargain, my friends. The sale price was a farce and that damn dress will fall apart in a few months. Which just opens up a whole other can of worms... false economy, consumer culture, mass waste, etc. On this topic, the moral is this- hang on to your mother's and your grandmother's clothing; these are the items worth their salt, these are the items worth keeping and handing down to your daughters. Expect to pay more for items made ethically and appreciate quality craftsmanship. Have we forgotten what this is? With Levi's now made of varying materials in varying countries, two identical pairs of style 501 you've worn forever (and in the exact same size) will now vary by up to 3 inches in length and 2.5 inches in the waist. The washes and finishes will have no consistency and the cut and feel will most likely be unrecognizable.

Inevitably, potential buyers think that this job is about style, trends, and getting clothing at cost. On style... Of course style is a key factor in maintaining relevance, moving merchandise and longevity in this job. I'm not sure if this factor is innate, it's a bit of an x-factor- but it's also about influence, and inspiration. On trends... This aspect of my job is really the science part of it, and again a bit of x-factor for good measure. Trends are about picking up on little clues and subtle cues in the collective consciousness. They are about understanding the motion and force of fashion from Asia, to Europe to America's East coast, to California, and back to Asia again. It's about the trickle-down effect of Haute couture to Prêt-à-Porter to up-market, to mass production. And once you understand all that, it's about timing. Computer-generated analysis of markets and retail analysts offer some help and take a bit of guesswork out of which departments and categories are moving well, but ultimately it comes down to your innate ability to time a given marketplace. Knowing months in advance what trends will hit at what moment and where. Will your consumers be ready? I can't tell you how many times my own timing has been off. Often as a buyer, having access to upcoming colors, collections, and designs- you're so far ahead of the collective curve that you overestimate your own clock. I've had to store away entire deliveries for months at a time, until such time as the trend hit and the consumer was ready for it.

But more and more my job is really about protecting consumers and the marketplace from bad investments, it's about shielding stores from bad reputations, and finding a happy medium between style and substance, whilst maintaining a fair price-point for desirable apparel. And clothes at cost? Yes, it's a perk. If you're interested in being a buyer, you're likely something of a clothes-horse anyway, so you'll appreciate this aspect of it. I keep waiting for the stuffed-to-the-gills closet thing to get old (it hasn't yet).